Thursday, 12 December 2013
Recap
Haven't been posting for quite some time, so a recap of what happend since my last post would be in place. Check it out below. And ask, comment, joke, discuss. I like to get some comments on this!
Deconstruction: The Engine
This is the engine I'm talking about: A Volvo B20 4-inline engine.
To get some variation of the tectyl removing, I started to get the engine apart. After removing the rocker casing and the rocker arm assembly, I was able to get the cylinder head bolts out. And again, one that was really hard to get out. With a long tool, I thought I got it out well.
The upper block is to be replaced by a revised one that is prepared for LPG (higher temperatures). But my plan was to get to the lower block myself.
It's a pretty deep scratch in the cylinder. Still have to get the pistons and all the other stuff out of the lower block. Let's see what that looks like....
To get some variation of the tectyl removing, I started to get the engine apart. After removing the rocker casing and the rocker arm assembly, I was able to get the cylinder head bolts out. And again, one that was really hard to get out. With a long tool, I thought I got it out well.
It did break, ofcourse. Why not. The rest of it is still in there. Figuring out what to do. And also, figuring out what to do with the rest of it, which looks like this.
It's a pretty deep scratch in the cylinder. Still have to get the pistons and all the other stuff out of the lower block. Let's see what that looks like....
To the bottom: Removing Tectyl
Now the 142 is on the bridge and on it's side, I can get to removing the tectyl. This is what it looked like before I got to it. As you can see I left the fuel line and break lines in place until the car was on it's side, so I could remove it easily.
To remove the tectyl, I was told to get some Fluid Film Liquid A and to soak it with it. So I did. I covered all the tectyl by putting the Fluid Film on with a big brush, repeating it a few times with a day in between. After that, the tectyl got a bit spongy. With a paint scraper I could scrape of the tectyl, or at least a lot. After scraping a lot of, again I put the Fluid Film on what tectyl was left.
It is still a lot of work, and it is still not totally done. But I think the Fluid Film makes the job a lot easier. The photo above is not how it is right now. I have done most of the bottom, most of what is left is the rear wheelhousings and the part under the sheetmetal of the rear.
To remove the tectyl, I was told to get some Fluid Film Liquid A and to soak it with it. So I did. I covered all the tectyl by putting the Fluid Film on with a big brush, repeating it a few times with a day in between. After that, the tectyl got a bit spongy. With a paint scraper I could scrape of the tectyl, or at least a lot. After scraping a lot of, again I put the Fluid Film on what tectyl was left.
It is still a lot of work, and it is still not totally done. But I think the Fluid Film makes the job a lot easier. The photo above is not how it is right now. I have done most of the bottom, most of what is left is the rear wheelhousings and the part under the sheetmetal of the rear.
In the meanwhile...
New tires for my XT600, beers for my birthday, trying to get the GS450L to start, hard working to make some money.
Deconstruction: the chassis
With almost all of the interior, exterior and motorbay done, the chassis was next. In the last post you have already seen that the front axle is removed, which was not that hard. The rear axle, on the other hand, proved to be a different story.
Most of the rear axle could, with some force and WD40, be removed. Not to easy, but ok for stuff that has been on the bottom of a car for about 40 years. But ofcourse, like always, one bolt of one of the supportarms was stuck. No movement, not after soaking in WD40 and oil, not after heating, hamering, whatever. Nothing. I really take everything of in on piece, not cutting up parts. But at this point I had to take my angle grinder and cut through the rubber to cut the bolt on both sides. It cost me 2 blades, 1 hammer and about 7 hours in total.
At this point the body is ready to put in the bridge. Finally!
Most of the rear axle could, with some force and WD40, be removed. Not to easy, but ok for stuff that has been on the bottom of a car for about 40 years. But ofcourse, like always, one bolt of one of the supportarms was stuck. No movement, not after soaking in WD40 and oil, not after heating, hamering, whatever. Nothing. I really take everything of in on piece, not cutting up parts. But at this point I had to take my angle grinder and cut through the rubber to cut the bolt on both sides. It cost me 2 blades, 1 hammer and about 7 hours in total.
After this most of it was quit easy. The panhard attachment to the body was a bit hard to losen, but got easier when the car was in the bridge and I could acces it easier.
I also wanted to take the front axle apart. Ofcourse also one very conservative bolt on a wishbone that rejected any change. When I think of it now, I still think is somewhere just like this:
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